I just returned from a whirlwind tour of Vienna and Budapest. Maybe it was all the kaffee (Viennese coffee with chocolate, liqueur and whipped cream), hazelnut schnitten (wafer cookies) and sachertortes, but today I'm reflective.
Vienna is a beautiful city. There is certainly no denying that. The Hapsburg family really did it up. But, that's just it. It's almost TOO beautiful. I know, barf, right? But, hear me out.
Budapest had the grunge factor I sometimes admire in a place. It feels "lived" in. Maybe it reminded me more of New York. Who knows. Certainly, scaling the small mountain that leads to the old Hungarian Citadel and taking in the view from Budapest Castle at night is not what you'd call low-rate or ugly. But, the streets were more kicked up, the markets more alive with hagglers and gamblers. In Hero's Square, children rode bicycles and skateboarded in an empty manmade lake. On Andrassy Utca, which they call the Champs-Elyssees of Budapest, my husband and I strolled past old, run-down mansions.
And, the people just seemed more passionate. Here's an example. On our last day in Budapest, my husband and I took the underground train service from Hero's Square to the Danube. We purchased tickets from an automated booth. Even though you could press a button to read the directions in English, my husband felt it was more "legit" to order tickets from the machine in Hungarian. So there we stood reading long words with few vowels trying to determine whether we wanted ticket A or B. We chose ticket B.
Five stops later, we alighted from the train much to the delight of a transit worker checking tickets. We held up our tickets for inspection and she promptly took them out of our hands and explained we had purchased cheaper tickets than warranted our longer journey. The only option was to pay a fine of 2,500 Hungarian marks per person.
We asked if we could just pay the difference between the two tickets. You see, we hadn't understood the instructions on the machine.
She said, "It's in English too. You can read it in English."
Oh yeah, but we wanted to be 'legit'.
We had a long, drawn out argument in which the transit worker yelled Hungarian insults at my husband and he yelled back, "What was that?" or "You talking to me?" It was bad, people. Bad. Not one of our finer moments. Then, she scribbled something on a piece of paper and told us we would now have to pay 7,000 Hungarian marks per person.
My husband got red. He demanded to speak to her manager.
The transit worker thus threatened to call "polizia" because we weren't complying. My husband said, "Fine. Call Polizia." She phoned someone on a cell phone. My husband still thinks she was really just calling her grandma to say Happy Easter. Fifteen minutes later and the polizia still hadn't shown up.
"Where's the polizia?" my husband asked, "I don't see any polizia."
"They are coming," she gave him a scowl.
We sat on a bench underground. We waited.
Still no polizia.
My husband whispered, "She's trying to shake me down. I know it. Let's just run for it."
I declined his offer. We waited for about twenty more minutes until the transit worker's boss arrived and in a much more calm way explained the situation. We would need to pay a fine. That was the law. Since we were first offenders, he suggested we could pay just one fine of 2,500. So, we agreed. Better to get out of there and move on. We asked his colleague, our lovely transit worker, to provide us with a receipt. She filled it out for 14,000 Hungarian marks (the 7,000 per person she had so thoughtfully quoted us earlier).
"But, your boss just told us we only had to pay 2,500."
"No, no!" She rolled her eyes. "You pay two fines. One per person."
Another argument ensued. We called over her boss who was busily checking tickets as passengers arrived in the station. He yelled at her in Hungarian at which point she reluctantly crossed out the 14,000 and wrote 2,500. My husband handed her the cash. We ran up the stairs and out of there. As we retreated, she was still yelling at us in Hungarian.
So, this makes me think: should everything be beautiful and perfect? For hours later, we discussed our less-than-perfect transit experience. Until then, all Budapest natives we'd met were sweet, friendly and helpful. Should this taint our experience? No, it made it even more interesting and unique. Or maybe not. A few hours later, we spoke with some other tourists who said getting stopped by transit workers was par for the course. Oh well. We learned our lesson.